Oh, the allure of food grilled Asian style, the primordial perfume of smoke melding with the scent of caramelized basting sauces and marinades. Sweet and sour, salty, and spicy tastes form an irresistible, crisp jacket of flavor over grilled vegetables and meat. Fish and fowl, too. Su-Mei Yu, author of “Asian Grilling” (William Morrow), writes that it’s the balance of flavors used to marinate and/or baste that makes Asian-grilled dishes so appealing. She explains that it is the distinct flavors of Asian seasonings that make it so delicious, adding that they are designed to match perfectly with the main ingredient. She advises readers to find the primary taste that they like best (sweet, sour, salty or spicy hot) and build on that, contrasting it with other flavors. In her book she explains that each Asian region has its own distinct seasoning style. In Southeast Asia, garlic, lemon grass, salt, turmeric, white pepper, and ginger or galangal (a rhizome with ginger-peppery flavor) are generally signature ingredients. In China, sesame oil, soy sauce, cinnamon, five-spice powder, and ginger often play a key role. Koreans, she says, prefer